As I reported on Twitter on April 1, 2011, there appear to be more benefits to beards in high altitude climbing than just the extra layer of fur between us and the snow and ice. According to the Wisconsin Institute of Physiological Performance Science, beard growth increases oxygen flow to some degree in the body at altitude where oxygen is scarce.

The Institute studied several Everest climbers on the same expedition; about half were encouraged to grow a beard while the others were encouraged to shave. At various levels on the mountain, the Institute’s scientists recorded the climbers respiratory index (RI) levels — an indication of oxygen in the body. Guess who had more O2? The climbers with the beards were able to process up to 15 percent more oxygen, according to the study.

The results in this study were probably accurate, but I wonder about several things: 1) was the sample size of the group sufficient to make this determination — all the reports thus far have not stated the size of the pool; 2) the experiment has yet to be replicated; and 3) more importantly, is the 15 percent higher RI noticeably a superior experience (reflexes, alertness) in high altitude climbing.

The theories being tried for why climbers with beards have a higher RI range from the idea that oxygen clings to the beard in higher concentrations than in open air, to the beard hairs increase air flow around the nose and mouth.

In regards to replication, the scientists at the Institute appear to be trying to do so in a pressure chamber. We’ll see what results come. For now, I am a little skeptical, but that’s the scientific process, I think.

Thanks again for visiting. Remember, you can follow the Suburban Mountaineer on Facebook and Twitter.

If you’re following on Facebook or Twitter (@SuburbanMtnr) you probably already heard that Alpinist, as well as others, have announced that Jason Stuckey and John Frieh made the second ascent of Mount Huntington (12,240 ft./3,731 m.) in winter. According to Frieh’s blog, The House of Frieh, both Americans sended the West Face Couloir by the Nettle Quirk Route in an impressive and returned to the base in just 23 hours on March 19-20, 2011.

These two alpinists met by chance at the Anchorage Airport a month earlier. They soon hatched the plan and acquired good information on climbing the mountain in winter from Colin Haley, who made the first winter ascent in 2007 with Jed Brown, and also current weather information from pilot Paul Roderick and alpinist Mark Westman.

The history and the lines of the mountain are captivating. Located in the Alaska Range, several miles south of Mount McKinley/Denali and rises up from the Ruth Glacier, it was first summited in 1964 by the great French alpinist Lionel Terray. Terray was part of the first successful ascent of an 8,000 meter peak with Maurice Herzog on Annapurna.

The second ascent set up the events that may have made one of the greatest contributions to mountaineering literature: In 1965, four members of the Harvard Mountaineering Club, including now-author David Roberts topped out and then, on the descent in the dark, a spark flew and Robert’s partner vanished. He chronicles the events in The Mountain of My Fear, which he wrote in one sitting without re-reading or editing. It was and remains a unique piece of climbing literature.

With this rapid, fast and light ascent on Huntington by Stuckey and Frieh, the impressive stories of the mountain continue. Well done, guys!

Happy Friday! If you enjoyed this post, please consider following the Suburban Mountaineer on Facebook or Twitter (@SuburbanMtnr).