Climbing

Age, National Pride and Everest

/ Andrew Szalay / Leave a comment

Happy Veterans Day and Remembrance Day from the Suburban Mountaineer!  And also, to my friends and family from the U.S. Marines, I want to wish a belated Happy Birthday to the Marine Corps.  Without the service of our veterans and armed forces, the conditions that we as Americans and Canadians hike, climb, explore and travel in general could be very, very different.

You may have already heard that a nine-year old Sherpa, Tseten, may become the youngest person to reach the top of Mount Everest(29,035 ft./8,848 m.).  He would beat Justin Romero of California who sended the mountain earlier this year at age 16.

There is controversy and it is two-fold: 1) Shortly after Romero topped out, age limits were set on both sides of the border on Everest; and 2) Tseten’s attempt would be against the new limit and carry a fine (hence everyone’s use of the word illegal.)

I have written about this before and I still feel that such an adventure, at Tseten’s age — about third grade in the states, that he can climb but not without a great deal of support from the adults on the expedition.  I was a little older when I started backpacking and climbing and I could not have done any of it at that age on my own.

To Tseten’s credit, however, he reportedly did summit on  Mount Ramdung (19,440 ft./5,925 m.) in northern Nepal with his father Pemba Dorje Sherpa.  It is Pemba Dorje that is the instigator in all of this.  Pemba Dorje holds the record for the fastest ascent of Mount Everest and he is quite passionate that all records on this mountain must be held by the Nepalese people.

Pemba Dorje is also confident in the aims of this pursuit of the Nepalese record that the authorities would support an exception — which, we now know, is not the case.

Again, I think Tseten should be allowed to climb Everest, but only once he has put in his time, demonstrated competence and reliability in the mountains.  That may mean he is 12 years old or 16 when he is ready.

My last point is about the policies on climbing Mount Everest or any mountain.  The laws or morality should always govern among the peaks above all else– meaning, take care of yourself, do no harm to your fellow climber and help whenever it is needed.  But in general, while I accept (but not necessarily support) user fees, I am annoyed by restrictions and guides on the principle that the mountains are the last truly wild place on earth.  Perhaps young people and older people should not climb high, but aren’t there always outliars capable of breaking through what we think are limitations for everyone?

I would like to know your thoughts on this topic, so feel free to leave a comment below or shoot me an email at SuburbanMountaineer@yahoo.com.  And remember, you may follow the Suburban Mountaineer on Facebook.

Simplifying the Crampon Selection Process

/ Andrew Szalay / Leave a comment
G-10 Crampons

Whatever crampons you choose, they should fit the boots you will wear on the mountain (Szalay 2010).

I took for granted how easy it was to go climbing with a guide in the Adirondacks that does all the outfitting for you.  I never had the complicated task of selecting the appropriate crampon for the trip.  Those guys just handed me everything! 

Then, before my trip to Alaska, I went to purchase my own pair — just in case.  Do you want rigid or flexible, straps or clips, horizontal or vertical teeth?  The options were overwhelming and the prices varied widely.  Because of the specialization, the choices can be overwhelming.  Let me try to get at some fundamentals of this gear to help you simplify your research. 

Purpose of Crampons

Crampons were the improvement upon the hobnail boot – which was literally nails placed in the boot’s sole for traction.  Oscar Eckenstein, a climber in the Scottish Highlands invented the 10-point crampon to give improved grip.  The French and the Germans embraced them in the Alps and adopted their own style of using them – the French flatfooted their way while the Germans tended to step in with their toes.  This was before front points, or “teeth,” so the proper technique needed to be practiced.  The whole point of crampons until the advent of front points and Yvon Chouinard was to improve a climbers grip on icy and snowy surfaces.  But when ice climbing was introduced, things got complex and the sport went in a new direction.  Waterfall ice and “mixed” routes became pursuits in their own right. 

While ice climbing crampons may be used for general mountaineering, and some of us have a tendency for overkill (for instance getting the all-wheel drive even when your car never leaves suburbia) they really are not necessary.  If you expect or want to be prepared for the sole 40-foot vertical ice cliff you encounter on an escape route from your intended route, your general mountaineering crampons can still do the job. 

Making Sense of the Choices

Figuring out which crampon suits you requires you to familiarize yourself with the gear and its functions.  REI’s website provides a helpful page on this by Nancy Prichard Bouchard.  Read it with an eye to what you will be doing in your crampons – not what you want to do.  There is way too much used and unused gear on Ebay for this reason!  Because of the specialization of crampons, you may need to buy the Grivel G-12s for your ascent up Algonquin Peak in January but then need something with more aggressive front points for the Ouray Ice Park in March. 

I used several pairs from Black Diamond from the Adirondack rental shop, and most of them were the step-in (with a clamp at the heel) type or a combination of using the step-in and straps.  Because I was mainly ice climbing, they all had front points and were made of steel, versus aluminum. 

Steel is preferred and stainless is the Cadillac of materials, however aluminum may be suitable for “light” mountaineering.  Aluminum, while less weight, it is not strong enough for unrelenting vertical routes when you’re standing on the teeth all the time. 

Practical Thought

The "tool box."

Whether you are considering strap or step-in models, bring your boots with you to make certain they work right together.  The crampon is an extension of the boot’s sole, and step-in crampons require the boot to have certain features to grip on and stay on.  If the crampon you prefer does not work with the boots you own, consider budgeting for new boots to go with your new spikes. 

Also, be sure to purchase a “tool box” or heavy-fabric cordura bag to fit just your crampons and maybe a few ice screws.  The bag will protect your luggage, favorite fleece and shell from being impaled by your new gear while on the airline to Alaska. 

Well, thanks again for visiting.  If you enjoyed this post, please consider following the Suburban Mountaineer on Facebook or on Twitter (@SuburbanMtnr).

Fee Increase for Denali: Back to Problem Solving

/ Andrew Szalay / Leave a comment

The National Park Service (NPS) has apparently agreed with the Suburban Mountaineer and others: The proposed rate increase from $200 to $500 for permits to climb Denali was too great.

The Suburban Mountaineer agreed that it is costly to run the NPS mountaineering operations in Denali National Park and Preserve, however such an enormous increase in one step was intolerable.  User fees, while popular and effective with the NPS, need to be implemented in a rational manner.  This is especially true for the climber just getting out of college; the more costly permit may cause him or her to compromise on the quality of gear he or she may use on the peak to save his or her life.

According to the Fairbanks News-Miner, NPS spokeswoman Kris Fister said “we’ve taken [the proposed increase] off the table.”  However, where this leaves Denali’s mountaineering operation and other user fees is uncertain.

The NPS is returning to the drawing table and will likely provide a revenue method from other visitors, or a gradual increase (over several years) to the mountaineering permit fee — which the Suburban Mountaineer recommends.  This way, at least the college climber will not be immediately priced out of climbing at the best time in his or her life.

However, the News-Miner article finally articulated the NPS position and rationale for the large increase so well (its communications team managed to explain this only after the push-back from the public was heard, it seems):

“’We spend an inordinate amount of money for a small number of visitors,’ Fister said of the mountaineering program.

“Next climbing season, the Park Service estimates it will spend approximately $1,200 per climber on Denali while the average cost for all other visitors in the park is expected to be about $37.”

Thank you for visiting.  Remember, you can follow the Suburban Mountaineer and join the discussions on Facebook.

A Quick Note on The Suburban Mountaineer

/ Andrew Szalay / Leave a comment

I just made a couple of updates to the Suggested Links page to this site.  I try to update my recommendations every few months depending on how current and useful I think they really are for hikers and climbers.

Also, I have a three other pages, including a page with a legal disclaimer and a an about page with my email, Facebook and Twitter links.  I also maintain a list of books that I recommend and usually let you know what I am reading now (though I am reading a baseball book during the playoffs so it didn’t seem right to list it.)

Anyway, I hope you continue to find it useful and let me know if you have any ideas or suggestions of your own at andrew.szalay@yahoo.com.

Via Ferrata in National Parks: Should We?

/ Andrew Szalay / Leave a comment

According to the Calgary Herald, via ferrata is expanding in North America by government support and the encouragement from the promise of recreational attractions and tourism.  In particular, it is possible that the park superintendents of Banff and Yoho National Parks may exercise their new regulatory flexibility and allow businesses to establish via ferrata routes within the park.

Via ferrata is Italian for iron way.  It is a system of bolted ladders and cables that allows non-technically skilled climbers to ascend alpine routes or rock faces.  They were established in the Dolomites of Northern Italy initially for the military purpose of troop movement during World War I.  Shortly afterwards it became a convenient way for non-mountaineers to see the world from granite walls.

The expansion of via ferrata has been controversial.  This is especially true now that the ethics of clean climbing, by using removable chocks and cams have become commonplace.  These tools have replaced the use of bolts and pitons, which scratch and accelerate the erosion of the face.  Via ferrata is permanently attached to the rock slab.  Therein is the problem.  Some would argue that via ferrata defaces the environment.  It certainly scars the mountains.

However, via ferrata allows people — typically hikers without mountaineering skills — to see the world from the climber’s perspective.  This should not be discouraged.  For that reason, established via ferrata routes are very special.  For instance, climber boyfriends can take their non-climbing girlfriends up to see the world from the wall without weeks and months of toproping and deciding who belays when.

A well maintained via ferrata route offers its climbers an amazing experience without having to find the route or extensive commitment to the art of sending.  But should we put more of these routes up and make them accessible to the public for $70.00?  Should everyone be able to climb a ladder be able to climb up El Capitan or The Chief?

Regardless whether the route goes up a major peak or the often unnoticed granite face outside of Lake Louise, should the peak be climbed by everyone or should it be untouched and pure.  As a hiker and a climber, I love via ferrata.  If via ferrata was not there, I don’t think our park and our experience in the mountains would be lacking.

Enjoy the via ferrata that are established.  But we don’t need any more.

If you agree or disagree, please leave a comment or join the discussion by being a fan of the Suburban Mountaineer on Facebook or Twitter (@SuburbanMtnr).

Unclimbed Chekigo Peak Summited

/ Andrew Szalay / Leave a comment

On October 6 I reported on the unclimbed peaks in the Nepal Himalayas and that a Bangladeshi and Nepalese friendship team set out to summit the unclimbed peak of Chekigo Peak (20,528ft/6257m).  Sure enough, they recently topped out and another “giant” is off the tick list.  Click here for the English language Bangladeshi news report.

Remember, you can follow these posts on Facebook or Twitter (@SuburbanMtnr).