Peak Baggers’ Integrity

Yesterday, it was reported that South Korean mountaineer Oh Eun-Sun was denied the right to have the title as the first woman to have ascended all 14 of the world highest peaks.  According to the Korean Alpine Federation, there were doubts as to whether her final summit of the circuit, on Kanchenchunga (28,169 ft./8,586 m.), were true. 

Whether her ascent was genuine or fabricated, the integrity of what people consider success in hiking and climbing is closely guarded by associations like the KAF and other national alpine organizations.  Does it matter to the rest of the world whether Oh actually climbed all 14 peaks?  It does to the next guy, and certainly to the next woman, who is trying. 

Records of our ascents made, trails hiked and distances kept are important if you are trying to develop a list of accomplishments; if we are going to tout it, we better be ready for the audit.  The validity of climbing and hiking records are often scrutinized similar to a golf score: If you moved the ball, even if nobody saw it, would you call a penalty stroke on yourself? 

I have kept terrible records of my hikes and climbs, but it might not matter for me.  I hike and climb for myself and my closest friends.  I enjoy my friends’ and acquaintances’ eyes going wide when I tell them about the conditions I traversed and what I saw.  The actual experience was personal, but the stories – and the reactions – are a source of satisfaction. 

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Forbidden Climbs: Afghanistan

Jimmy Chin’s slide show and talk was good, but I was surprised by the crowd that attended the event.  I’ll tell  you more about it on Monday, but I wanted to share this with you first…

The BBC reported yesterday on Alan Halewood’s first ascent of an unnamed peak in the Wakhan Corridor of Afghanistan.  This is a place known for its remote location and political dangers in Greg Mortenson’s book Stones Into Schools.  Few westerners venture here and many of the peaks have not been climbed.  When more stability is reached, climbers are going to be sending up these walls in droves.

Scenery Junkies

The majority of my time enjoying the mountains is through photos in coffee table books, Backpacker and Climbing magazines, and my own pictures — and the majority of my own shots are about ten years old now.  The photos the professional mountain photographers give me a glimpse of ranges I have not been to and a sense of the risks of the climb. 

Some of my photos fail to show the true depth of the features or give a sense of the vertical perspective.  I am often left apologizing to my friends when they look at my pictures.  Most of them have never climbed a mountain, so they don’t know what it’s like, so I say, “Well, the picture just doesn’t do it justice.”  But the photos in Backpacker and Climbing often seem fanciful or doctored to the non-hiker/climber.  So it is hard to express how those photos are often a better representation of what I saw.   

Regardless that I sound like a photo-loony to my friends, I appreciate those professional photos immensely.  I like the classic ones by done in black and white by Ansel Adams and Bradford Washburn that accurately show the dimensions of the mountain side with dream-like wonder.  When I flip through Alpinist, Climbing, gear catalogs and some other publications, many of those amazing photos come from mountain photographer Jimmy Chin

Chin has been climbing for years and continues to do so.  He’s made ascents in the Himalayas and elsewhere, but it’s what he shares that makes him special to the hiking and climbing world.  He is a gifted photographer that brings the depth, colors and sense of the place to me through his photos. 

He will be at the National Geographic Society headquarters tonight and I am looking forward to hearing his stories and taking in his slide show.  I will let you know how it goes. 

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Medevac: Encourage Improvements Don’t Require Them

The USA Today reported on Thursday, August 19th that the medevac industry is resisting safety improvements to the helicopter fleet.   At first blush to a hiker or climber, the changes the National Transportation Safety Board (NTSB) is seeking be mandated seem more than reasonable.  However, these could have server financial consequences that might limit rescue service, raise the rescued person’s expenses for being retrieved and increase insurance costs. 

Despite that a high number of deaths and accidents have occurred in the recent months involving medevac, the people entering the wilderness have assumed the risk (in my book) by going into the backcountry.  Hikers and climbers are very knowledgeable today about the risks and that even a rescue is dangerous. 

The NTSB wants to require that medevac helicopters all be equipped with night vision goggles and certain safety alarms regarding terrain.  These are costly and the medevac industry said they encourage them but do not require them because of the cost.  These are expensive purchases and would effect every medevac business’ bottom line. 

How would they pay for it?  By limiting other services by hiring less expensive pilots and medical technicians.  Or the price would be seen on your bill.  It is also like to raise the premiums of adventure travel insurance.  The NTSB is talking about a perfect world.  Unfortunately we live in an expensive one.  One that we as hikers and climbers should know the risks. 

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Mountain Safety Improved: Galgary Herald

The Calgary Herald reported today that data from the Alpine Club of Canada and the American Alpine Club show that mountain adventures have gotten safer in the 1980s and has remained at that level since.  A representative of the Calgary Scrambling and Mountaineering Club attributes this to improved gear and better training available to people going into the backcountry. 

The article also points out that the outdoor enthusiasts deserve a lot of the credit; we do our homework before going out there.  We have access to a great deal of information through the Internet, local climbing groups, hiking clubs and discussion groups. 

Safety always comes down to using our heads and not losing them (pun intended.)  So carry the Ten Essentials when you head out into the mountains.  Or, if you’re like me, take your Blackberry before leaving for the subway. 

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Before Vibram: Hobnail-Boot Ascents

The Great George Mallory.

When we cannot hike climb (mainly because of work and family), many of us enjoy reading stories of other explorers’ experiences.  Most of these stories tend to be about near-death or death experiences.  While climbing is inherently dangerous, it is actually about living. 

It seems the experiences of life and death in the mountains fascinates all of us.  We enjoy it with Gore Tex and fleece, and even that sometimes fails to keep us dry and warm at times.  Once upon a time, a legendary climber, who wore hobnail boots and climbed in various layers of wool (for warmth) and silk (for wind resistance) and his partner approached the top of Mount Everest and was never seen again. 

His body was not found until this past decade by American climber Conrad Anker.  He wrote an enjoyable short, enjoyable book with David Roberts and now National Geographic is releasing a documentary on Anker, who has parallels in his life to the life of George Leigh Mallory’s, and making an attempt on Everest with the equipment of the 1920s.  You can watch the of the trailor of the movie, The Wildest Dream, here.  It opens on August 6th. 

I have said before that the coverage of Everest gets a little silly and this is an example.  The mountain appears to get more media coverage in North America, at least, than any other peak aside from Mount Rainier.  I do not mean to diminish the climb or the effort; I have not climbed it and I do not intend to.  However, mountaineering is more than just ascending the highest peaks and being the first to reach the top (though sometimes I wish it was that simple).   That being said, this documentary will share with us, and possibly a new generation unfamilier with the suffering and sacrifice of early climbing, the magnitude of the challenge mankind faced, particularly in the Himalayas. 

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