Love Your Shell: Care for It

EMS Shell jacket

Shells' water repellancy and breathability diminish with time and wear; do something about it.

Two things: Your so-called three-season rain jacket probably is not made of polyurethane, so the “proof” qualities will wear away without care.  Also, if you find the breathability of the jacket suffocating now, don’t replace it; there is a better way.  Same goes for winter shells. 

While proper water-proof shells are basically durable plastic bags, like the Helly Hansen Voss jacket and pants, they are really only good at keeping the wind and rain out if you are reasonably sedentary.  We bird watchers or the Queen’s guard should appreciate these shells a great deal.  These “rubber” shells are non-breathable and require little-to-no care. 

Breathable jackets that use Gore Tex, HyVent DT, Conduit and other brands of treatment require maintenance to maintain optimum performance.  For those of us stuck in Peaklessburg, our shells are probably worn year-round but rarely get to see “action” on the trails or up a route.  Still, wearing it every day is every day wear.  Your sweat clogs the pores on the inside of the jacket, preventing it from breathing, and both the sun and the rain skim off the protective water resistant coating.  Both are reparable. 

Nikwax treatmentTo restore breathability, the shell needs a wash, especially on the inside.  I like to hand wash my jackets and snow pants, so I get a bucket and fill it most of the way with water (leave room for the garment) and two caps full of Nikwax Techwash Gel.  Gently massage the fabric.  Sometimes the garment’s label might be in conflict with the recommended water temperature for the Techwash Gel, which is warm.  If the shell says wash in cold water I put just a little hot water in first with the cap full of Gel just to activate the soap, and then fill the rest with cooler water. 

Once the shell dries most of the way and still a little damp, I lay the garment flat and systematically spray every section of the shell with Nikwax TX Direct.  The shell needs some water moisture on it to properly receive the spray treatment.  If it over dries prior to spraying, run it through the shower for a moment.  Be sure to put an unused trash bag under the shell before spraying: the spray can leave tiled floors quite slippery.  Follow the instructions on the bottle, which calls you to wipe off any excess spray and water from the garment after a few moments.  Then repeat on the other side before allowing it to hang dry.   

Some of us could have had a fashionable leather bomber jacket for what we paid for our shells.  We ought to care for them so they give us a great deal of protection over a long time, from the snow, rain, and ice.  Maybe even some protection from city smog. 

If you liked this post on The Suburban Mountaineer, consider subscribing to my feed.

Dragons, Dracula and the Future of Climbing

The Open Championship was held this past weekend.  I know what you’re asking, what does this have to do with backpacking and climbing on our vacations?  Clearly the heat in Peaklessberg has gone to Andrew’s head.  Well, something the color analyst said about the up and coming generation of golfers struck me about our own sports.

He said that television and the Internet have transformed players’ knowledge and their ability to prepare for those golf courses.  They can see golf courses they have never played, like St. Andrews or TPC at Sawgrass, and know where the hazards lie or the way the ball will roll over a particular part of the green.  Golfers today come to these courses more knowledgeable than golfers before.  For example, when players from the United States and Canada in the 1960s went to play St. Andrews in Scotland for the first time, the only guidance they had was a rudimentary rendering of the layout of the course.  So when Jack Nicklaus (golf’s version of Reinhold Messner) first arrived at the Old Course, he could not predict or know what precisely the ball would do at various aspects of the course.

One hundred years ago, backpacking and mountaineering was also guided by rudimentary guidance about the territories we explore.  But since the 1950s and 60s, these sports have evolved upward as well.  Maps, trail guides, and route reviews online have exposed what was once a mystery of topography.  While man, as a species, has not yet been to every point on earth, there is little secret about what is there… generally speaking.

The big, obvious mountains have all been conquered and some of the lesser peaks too.  One day, it will be recorded in Alpine Journals that all the peaks have been climbed.  There ought to be a celebration at that point.  It would be a significant junction, where the touching the points ended and the familiarizing ourselves with the intimate aspects of the mountains and climbing might begin.  Only, this familiarization has already begun in many of the great ranges, such as the attempts on the infamous Magic Line up K2 or the new route up Mount Foraker in Alaska, aptly named Dracula, which was just scaled this June.

The age where there is a blank on the map is over.  Finding dragons in the unknown is a preposterous idea.  We cannot stop this trend from happening, where the map is being filled-in and the peaks are being bagged.  But the thrill of making an ascent yourself – your own first – or creating your own route will never be surpassed.

Ten Priorities for an Outdoor Vacation

  1. Go somewhere the Blackerry and cell phone gets no signal.
  2. Get up early at least once and watch the mist rise off the lake.
  3. Stay up late to watch the stars, and then sleep in.
  4. Hike, climb or paddle hard and finish the day with an ice cold beer.
  5. Find a great vantage point, lay out the map and match each point within view to its name.
  6. Cook something over an open fire.
  7. Use a pocket knife for something other than opening a beer bottle. 
  8. Play cards with friends on a rainy day.
  9. Upon reaching your destination you see a peak not too far off, look it up on your map and say “what the heck,” and go exploring.
  10. In-country, cook a meal you thought you would only find in a restaurant. 

Long Underwear, Please – So What if it’s August!

While the weather here in Peaklessburg is going to be sunny, 90 degrees (with and a ruthless dew point of 65), some were recently reminded that winter-esque activities can be found year round if we are willing to travel across the globe.  For instance, today’s coverage of the World Cup in South Africa shows fans shivering in the stands at the brink of winter and a person who recently bought an ice axe on Ebay from me a month ago indicated he plans to use it to climb in the Andes.

However, one of the complications of preparing for an alpine adventure in Peaklessburg – during any time of year – is that the brick and mortar outfitters do not carry the specialized gear necessary and the staff’s knowledge is left entirely to hearsay advice on those topics.  The local REI, for example, does not even carry one basic ice axe or a pair of crampons.  What if a customer was going to climb in the Yukon Territory, where there are few-to-no places to gear-up upon arrival?  Of course there is the ability to shop on the Internet, but you cannot return climbing gear for any reason because of liability issues, even if the length, fit or weight is not satisfactory.  Perhaps outfitters in the south should at least have samples of alpine gear at the outfitter from which to judge comfort issues of weight and length and base making online purchases or special orders through the outfitter.

I have run into this issue with outfitters here regarding full grain leather boots and long underwear as well.  Sure, full grain leather boots are hot and uncomfortable in Peaklessburg where I bought them from a salesman that thought I was 1) throwing away money, and 2) should be buying a heavily ventilated mid-top sneaker he was pushing on me.  He clearly had never hiked in the Adirondacks where the Asolos I bought excel in crossing streams, traverse trails soaked by runoff and keep my feet comfortable despite the inevitable deep mud.  The less expensive mid-top would have left me wet and less supported under my loaded pack.  I also had difficulty obtaining long underwear for trip to Alaska, just because I was traveling in August.

Outfitters may be located in a certain region, and their staff may be most knowledgeable with the local climate and conditions, however we live in the jet age.  We travel, at least sometimes, to exotic locations.  As backpackers and mountaineers, the allure of what else is out there is very exciting.  It is too bad the stores in flat, featureless metropolitan areas are still limited in their expectation for what their customers may want to do.

Too Young to Climb for Some of Us

I want to congratulate Jordan Romero, age 13, for becoming the youngest person to reach the top of Mount Everest in May.  It takes a lot of skill and perseverance as well as a little good luck to get there.  What he did is extraordinary, regardless whether anyone ever beats his record.

Earlier this week, however, the China Tibet Mountaineering Association made an announcement that says probably no one will ever beat Jordan’s record.  Permits for climbing in the Tibetan Himalayas will now require climbers to be at least 16 years old.  This is an attempt to prevent a race to be the youngest to reach Everest and save the most foolish of us from ourselves.

Mountaineering – and the same may be said of backpacking too – is the greatest test of our knowledge of nature and risk assessment skills.  It is also a measure of our foolishness.  Any of us may participate in these sports, but our knowledge about the activity and our ability to assess risk will determine whether we should proceed.  Clearly, Jordan Romero had the, knowledge, skills and fortune needed, not to mention support of a good team.

Should government limit who is permitted to climb?    I think not, but I do feel an age limit of something a little lower than 16 is preferred.  I recall when I was 12 and I could not pack what I rightly needed to go camping.  I did better when I was fourteen, and with the right parental support, we should be able to tie in and head up.  At sixteen I did my first long over night backpacking trip with a friend the same age.  We assumed the risk our parents trusted us.

Our own judgment matures better by knowing there is nothing there to catch us, un-belayed and on our own.  For example, would Jordan, at age 13, have climbed solo like Reinhold Messner?  If he did assume the risk of that undertaking he most likely would have turned around well before the summit pyramid, if he did not run into trouble first.  However, I do think Jordan could climb independently, but not without doing a lot more climbing – and he will be a man when he is ready.

Rethink Your Training to Maximize Your Short Mountain Vacation

Most of us prepare for our hikes and expeditions by only doing the sport.  When I learned to ice climb I was told the best way to train for ice climbing is by climbing ice.  Other people suggest the same goes for hiking; only with a pair of boots laced on, a loaded pack strapped on and genuine trail conditions will properly strengthen a hiker for more hiking.  But living in Peaklessburg has convinced me that’s wrong. 

Because we spend less time on the trail, as working professionals, training smartly off the trail is even more crucial to get the full benefit of our rare visits to the mountains.  None of us wants to bonk half way up the hill on a crystal clear day, only to suck wind and head back to the trailhead.  We need to work out differently to ensure we will have mental toughness on the trail as well as still breath deep and sustain carrying weight up a slope (or wall, for those vertical ice and rock stars) for a prolonged period.  Otherwise, the trail and/or summit we dream of all year about will be wasted. 

While some hikers do not, many of us may run, walk or cycle to keep in shape for our hikes and climbs, mainly to keep our legs strong and our cardio system ready.  That fitness, through cross training, is indeed better than just relying on hiking or climbing alone to get us where we need to be to perform.  Although that kind of training can keep you ready, it won’t help you lift yourself over difficult ledges, pull a roof, or help you indicate how much farther you can really push yourself carrying your pack.  The key is building a solid core – much of it through traditional strength training routines in a weight gym. 

Weight gyms have been long been the reason a lot of hikers and climbers prefer training through dedicating their efforts solely to their sport.  After all, gyms are basically enlarged cubicles with machines that can serve as excuses for gym-goers to run on treadmills so they can watch their television shows (reformed couch potato, really), rather than jog down the sidewalk or through the park in the real world.  As hikers and climbers, we all believe that.  However, if used discretely and effectively, strength training can unleash our potential for physical power and enhance our durability, thus improving our performance on the trail. Not to mention improved mental toughness. 

Take America’s most likeable mountaineer, Ed Viesturs, for instance.  Viesturs swears by tough strength training to build a solid core.  He trained for years without a structured weight routine and was successful but he took it to another level when Ubbe Liljeblad voluntarily took him on as a special case and he rebuilt his routine.  See “Climb like Ed” on Backpacker.com for more. 

Similarly, the guides in the Grand Tetons are also on board.  They subscribe to the program by Rob Shaul and his staff at Mountain Athlete.  It still has the flavor of being a meathead locker, but the testimonials have been strong in Alpinist and by the fact that they have expanded with associated gyms, and even certified gyms, tells us that if nothing else, the idea of combining strength training with our preparation for the hills is not so ridiculous. 

Results will be seen in the quality of our climbs.  I don’t meet Shaul’s high standards for strength, but I can definitely carry more, and carry more weight farther after applying similar routines than the next guy or gal that only runs and spends the professional day in the office.  Bring on the pain!  We’ll be ready for Mounts Washington, Hood, and Foraker!