It’s Here: 2013 American Alpine Journal

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Wunderkind and I stopped by our mailbox on the way home from our walk last night. I said to my toddler, “Let’s see if it came.” It did and the rest of the mail seemed less important, or at least less interesting.

Every year, in the middle of August members of the American Alpine Club receive the annual edition of the American Alpine Journal and Accidents in North American Mountaineering. The AAJ is by far my favorite of the two, though I am sure to read both as quickly as possible.

There are a lot of articles and reports worth devouring, but here is what’s on my short, short list for anyone who wants the Readers Digest version:

P. 102 — Recon: Revelations by Clint Helander — Clint is a nice and generous fella that happens to be a true pioneer in climbing in a day and age when there are a lot of hot shots going to Asia. Clint has found gems right here in North America and it’s as close as you can get to the days of climbing with Ad Carter and Bradford Washburn as you can get. This doesn’t mean to imply he climbs old school at all — read it an see.

P. 38 — Doubleheader by Kyle Dempster — I don’t focus on the Karakorum and Himalayas like most people these days, but I know that the ascents of K7 and the Ogre are significant and impressive. I’m bracing myself to be wowed.

P. 88 — Life Essence by Pat Goodman — This region in the Northwest Territory has long excited me, and Pat Goodman is as wonderful for climbing as his name suggests and he hasn’t disapointed me with his observations and stories yet.

P. 97 — Himjung Style by Ahn Chi-Young — The language barrier often gets in the way from what happens in this part of the world. I want to look through this port hole because I don’t know what I don’t know.

I left off this list Sandy Allan’s piece on the Mazeno Ridge traverse, which should have won the Piolet d’Or, and Freddie Wilkinson’s feature of the traverse of the Alaska Range’s Mooses Tooth massif because I think they have been well covered, not because they don’t deserve the read.

I am also going to spend time closely reading the book reviews before I read the trip reports. I think that it’s important to know what has been written about our community before diving into what it has done recently. It helps to stay in tune with the views and approaches of our niche yet diverse group.

Lastly, the obituaries might be just as important as the trip reports if not more so. The reports are snapshots of what may one day be written at the end. The In Memorium section, covers the climber in full. Whether you knew them or not, these mini biographies should be read carefully. I’ll pay close attention to the notes on Michael Ybarra, Bjorn-Eivind Artun, Roger Payne, Bean Bowers, and Yan Dongdong.

Carrying the AAJ under your arm everywhere for weeks if necessary is worth it to get through all of the rich content the community has shared. For me, with a busy regulatory work schedule coming up and two young children, it will be necessary. I’m a little worried since I haven’t finished reading Alpinist 43 and the latest issue of Climbing. I’ll gladly set aside my other books, but staying on top of my periodicals of choice is getting dicey.

May you have adequate time to read in gulps rather than sips.

I appreciate you stopping by for a read once again. If you enjoyed this post, please consider following The Suburban Mountaineer on Facebook and Twitter.

Climbing matters, even though we work nine to five.

Alpinism is Not a Game

Nick Cienski, the creative at the sporting brand Under Armour and formerly mountaineering brand Arc’teryx, has boldly declared that he will be pursuing a record in the Himalayas, through a budget of $5.6 million, to draw attention to one of the most horrible of crimes against mankind, human trafficking. He plans to climb all 14 of the world’s 8,000-meter peaks within the shortest timeframe ever (just 24 months).

This may excite some, and why not? It sounds like a fresh adventure. Maybe it awakens something in you. He’ll take you along every step of the way through social media, if you want.

While I love a good linkup, I’m sincerely worried that Cienski is a courageous ego with too much money and not enough independent alpine experience to take on this mission.

Until the 1960s, the most historic mountaineering and alpine climbs were lead by Europeans and those empowered by money. As Phil Powers of the American Alpine Club recently wrote, their access within places like the Explorers Club was as much about their “pedigree” as it was on skill and talent.

Today, the most historic climbs seem to come from climbers with skill and talent rewarded financially with grants and other financial awards. They’re encouraged by others to pursue their latest ambition. The awards are votes of confidence.

Cienski hasn’t earned such broad support, and those that have thousands of hours of experience climbing 8,000-meter peaks I doubt would want to pursue such an endeavor like the one Cienski is pursing. While he has some support from knowledgeable friends and those with financial resources, he’s promoting this adventure as his alone. So I wonder, does Cienski’s resources, without validation from the climbing community, matter?

For his goal, the effort, at altitude sustained the way he would experience it, would be exhausting. The dangers of climbing would mount on each successive ascent, mainly because of the time limit Cienski has placed on himself. What choices would be acceptable, which weren’t acceptable before, when he falls behind schedule due to weather or a permit issue. And in those situations, what kinds of dangers would he place his support team and would-be rescuers in if he ran into trouble. (I have a horrible feeling that he wouldn’t accept the responsibility of getting himself out of a jam, though I really don’t know for certain.)

Based what I’ve seen and heard from friends more familiar with Cienski’s project and his limited experience in the Himalayas, the quest he’s embarking on appears to be as much, if not more, about his reputation and ego than it does for his cause. Alpine mountaineering is the most deadly form of climbing and Cienski will pursue it on its biggest stage, the Himayas, and very publically on social media.

I seriously admire his audacity but I cringe at his style. I wish him well, hope for his success, and pray he makes wise judgments in the mountains even if that means turning around and his goal is unsuccessful. If it’s about raising awareness for human trafficking, then he would have been a victory regardless.

I appreciate you stopping by for a read once again. If you enjoyed this post, please consider following The Suburban Mountaineer on Facebook and Twitter.

Climbing matters, even though we work nine to five.

Child Carriers: Advice and a Story

Taking in the view of Stowe from Mt. Mansfield with Wunderkind (Stern 2012)

If you’re like me, you’ve probably become your non-outdoors oriented friends’ and colleagues first resource whenever they have questions about the best places nearby to hike and what kind of gear do they need. Climbing never seems to come up, but that’s okay.

Now that most of my friends are parents too, I have been getting slightly different questions. One friend, who prefers the mall to the park, has a daughter in Girl Scouts. Every Spring there is a new question related to camping, presumably because the badge for that stage in her development requires something more advanced. First it was about sleeping bags, mattress pads and flashlights. This spring it was all about tents. I’m always happy to weigh in (especially when she expresses gratitude with a couple extra boxes of Thin Mints.)

Since Natalie and I have two young kids and are known to take the kids outdoors more than most, the latest question is, “What child carrier do you use?”

First off, the term child carrier mostly refer to something that resembles an old fashioned exterior framepack, and you don’t need a child carrier if you’re doing a short day hike with minimum gear. I used a Bjorn when Wunkerkind was an infant to walk a mile or so around Great Falls, Virginia. That’s the same device we used for a walk along the block or just to bring her along as I also put out the recycling. So if you’re using some sling or carrier now, consider whether that holder might do the trick.

Second, keep in mind that the younger your child is, the further you might be able to walk with them. But once you reach toddlerhood, you don’t have to go far to share great outdoor experiences with them. So if you’re not deadset on going on overnight backpacking trips to the Presidentials with your little one, you might not need the premier pack.

On the descent of Mt Mansfield via the ski runs (Stern 2012)

Natalie and I took Wunderkind on her first “real” hikes in Vermont on Mount Mansfield (Vermont’s highest mountain, which is best known for having the biggest and best ski resort… on the east coast, that is) and around the town of Stowe last fall. She was thirteen months old so we limited the experience to one day hike on Mansfield and a couple of shorter nature walks on some secluded trails.

I carried Wunkerkind in a used Kelty Kids Back Country. It had a frame that hung far from my back and center of gravity, so it was a little bulky to manuever. Still, it was comfortable for Wunderkind. We used it on the “big” day hike (four miles up and down hill) and we’ve gone a lot of places on urban hikes here in Peaklessburg, like the National Zoo. Wunderkind often insists I carry her around in it even for walks to our neighborhood Starbucks.

Unfortunately, the Kelty carrier recently had a mishap. A few weeks ago after a trip with Wunderkind’s mother, new brother and godparents to see the big cats and elephants at the zoo, I noticed something alarming. One of the plastic joists holding the aluminum frame together snapped beyond reasonable repair. I considered glue, duct tape, and the stress such a fix could handle. Caution made me decide that this was the end of its road.

Since it was bought new in the 1990s and spent most of its life in the previous owner’s garage, it was exposed to more than a decade’s worth of Mid-Atlantic summer heat without any temperature controls. I suspect that weakened the plastic the joist was made. Combined with the increasing stress of carrying a growing Wunderkind, the weak plastic — or even the old cordura — was bound to break down eventually.

Enjoying a short walk around Stowe, Vermont (Stern 2012)

When I started writing this post I was going to suggest you start looking on Ebay for a similar model and vintage, but not anymore. The model is fine, but if the equipment is old, treat it like a used climbing rope: You don’t want your child dangling off it. So before Natalie and I go off on our next family adventure, we’ll be getting a new child carrier. What’s below is the advice I recently passed on to a friend over the TSM Facebook page, but now I will also be following my own advice:

Regardless of what child carrier you choose to buy, here are three key tips:

  1. Water — When trying out a child carrier in the store, especially if you have toddler, try to see where you will keep water and how you can get some to your rider. On the Kelty, I carried a Klean Kanteen off a carabiner hooked onto the webbing and can hold it over my back to just reach Wunderkind’s arm reach — she does the rest.
  2. Mirror — Also, if your child rides on your back, carry a mirror. I used the one on my compass. It allows me to check her mood, make sure she is okay, whether she fell asleep (it’s happened) or see what she’s looking at so I can keep her engaged, particularly when Wunderkind and I are walking alone.
  3. Storage — Lastly, make sure the carrier has at least a small pocket to store anything from a hat or snacks to a spare diaper.

We investigated new child carriers last week and I think we settled on which one worked best for Wunderkind and me. I’ll share more about that later.

I appreciate you stopping by for a read once again. If you enjoyed this post, please consider following the Suburban Mountaineer on Facebook and Twitter.

Climbing matters, even though we work nine to five.

Views of the Revelation Range

Jason Stuckey climbing the key pitch on Apocalypse Peak (9,345 ft.) (Clint Helander 2013, All Rights Reserved)

This past spring, Clint Helander and Jason Stuckey made the first ascent of Apocalypse Peak (9,345 ft./2,848 m.) in Alaska’s Revelation Mountains. The Revs are a subset of the Alaska Range and are quite remote.

I’ve been in touch with Clint on and off for over a year or so about his various climbs from the Revs and the great routes in Alaska like the north face of Mount Hunter. He’s a generous person and even freely shared some photos on his first ascents of Golgatha and Apocalypse Peak.

I recently got acquainted to his climbing partner from the Apocalylse ascent, Jason Stuckey. He shared with me several photos from the climb and they may be among the best — if not the best — photos of the Revs ever taken. They have this potential because I’m not aware of any images of the area that are so well composed to illustrate the jagged nature of the range and include the landmarks that were named by David Roberts.

Jason Stuckey was generous in giving me full permissions to share his best photos with you here on TSM. Be sure to find a big monitor someplace and click on each one. You won’t regret it.

The west face of Apocalypse Peak (Clint Helander 2013, All Rights Reserved)

Clint Helander ascending Apocalypse Peak with The Angel prominent in the background. (Jason Stuckey 2013, All Rights Reserved)

Helander traversing the ridge and avoiding the cornices on Apocalypse Peak (Jason Stuckey 2013, All Rights Reserved)

This is a spectacular panoramic view of the Revelations from Apocalypse Peak, including Revelation Glacier, The Angel and Golgotha. Be sure to click on the image to take-in the full-size expanse. (Jason Stuckey 2013, All Rights Reserved)

Here is Helander, near the top. It is a closer shot than the earlier panorama. (Jason Stuckey 2013, All Rights Reserved)

I appreciate you stopping by for a read once again. If you enjoyed this post, please consider following The Suburban Mountaineer on Facebook and Twitter.

Climbing matters, even though we work nine to five.

Hangboards, Climbing Indoors, and Books (Lots of Books)

For this summer I promised Natalie that I would not complain so much about the typically miserable Mid-Atlantic heat and humidity. I was doing well until the other day thanks largely to the milder summer temperatures and the above-average rainfall. But this week I am back to swimming during my commute in the warm, muggy air.

So it’s time to go back indoors on the weekends rather than play outside with the kids, and time for me to focus on some indoor projects rather than take a long walk by the river. Thanks to these projects, when I’m focused on them, I don’t have to complain:

Training Board
I’m finally putting my oversized paperweight on the wall. Ahem, that is to say my Metolius hangboard is finally going to get some use. It took a while to have it mounted. Here is the length of my procrastination:

  • December 2007 — Received as a Christmas Present. So excited (Natalie is my witness), I uncharacteristically did nothing (which is genuinely kind of weird for me).
  • June 2008 — Started to put it up, but bigger emergency home repair and remodeling project got in the way. Bigger fish to fry.
  • March 2013 — Moved to new townhome with some easy-access exposed beams and studs. Low hanging fruit? Nope; did zilch.
  • June 2013 — In a burst of enthusiasm, bought new mounting board. (The old one got cut up for other projects.) But when do use the circular saw with a toddler and newborn always nearby?
  • July 2013 — Slowing installing (using the drill when the kids aren’t sleeping and I have a free moment — tricky) and hope to put the hangboard up for use any day now. No, really.

Climbing Library
I’ve been adopting a less is more mantra about everything, particularly about what I pack for trips and my possessions at home. The one significant exception has been my library. I sold a huge portion of it (mostly texts on American history and world events), but none of the climbing-related books. Building a solid climbing library that suits my interests and existing expertise is a major mission for me.

For now, the collection that I have is a hodge-podge of topics from the Adirondacks to the Karakorum. I’d like it to be comprehensive in the areas that interest me most. While Alaska and Patagonia are two places that grip my imagination, occasionally so do other places, like Baffin Island and the Garhwal Himalaya, or whatever interests me from time to time. This means before I can start organizing my collection and acquiring new volumes I have to make some tough decisions about where do I focus my interests. Alaska, certainly, but what’s Tier II and what do I dismiss and set-aside? I’m not rushing to make these choices.

What this is really about is a commitment to a certain topic or set of topics. It will also have a direct bearing on where TSM heads in the coming years.

Interestingly, my committment to my library is solidifying concurrently with a new development, and it might have an effect on some of those choices about Tier II topics…

Indoor Rock
So here in hot, humid, Peaklessburg, where the best outdoor rock climbing is top roping and the highest point is only several-hundred feet above sea level, I’ve been slowly embracing the pleasure of pulling plastic. It’s not just training any more.

Although I look forward to climbing outdoors much more, heading to my local indoor crag is now providing a new perspective on this time in my life. Above all, it’s my favorite way to step away from work and family to regroup and go back to my duties with greater enthusiasm.

It is possible that this new enjoyment may bring some new topics here in the coming months. Ninety percent of TSM will still be about mountaineering and the wilderness experience, but I may inject a new facet about rock and plastic climbing now and then.

Besides, climbing in Peaklessburg is all about climbing what you can. It’s better than not climbing at all.

I appreciate you stopping by for a read once again. If you enjoyed this post, please consider following The Suburban Mountaineer on Facebook and Twitter.

Climbing matters, even though we work nine to five.

Fifty Classic Climbs of North America

With my series on The Greatest Climbers of All Time behind us, I thought those of you interested in continuing to learn about some important climbing history that this book might be worth reviewing now. This may resonate more with North Americans, but I think these routes are worth taking a look at regardless. Coincidentally, this book was featured in Climbing magazine in the most recent issue. I hope this isn’t redudant for those of you that read that one. I like to think I have some things Climbing didn’t mention…

Over three decades ago, two climbers — Steve Roper and Allen Steck — took it upon themselves to identify some of the best climbs on the continent. Since their book, Fifty Classic Climbs of North America, was first published in 1979, the routes it canonized as the 50 classic, soon became known as the 50 crowded climbs. People clearly agreed with their choices, yet they recognized that much of their decisions could be second guessed: “Our routes are not the fifty classic climbs of the continent, but rather our personal choice of the finest routes in several major areas which differ radically in length, type of climbing, and geographic setting” (Roper, xi).

The book is a wonderful history of those routes, as well as the regions they are in to some extent. They tell the stories based on the best of sources, and list the best available agreed-upon rating for those routes. As illustrated in the Acknowledgments section at the beginning of the book (p. viii), their sources were a virtual who’s who list of north american climbers: Monty Alford, Fred Beckey, Glen Boles, Mike Covington, Jim Crooks, Harry Daley, Greg Donaldson, Clark Gerhardt, Mike Graber, Jim Hale, David Isles, Chris Jones, Steve Komito, Alan Long, George Lowe, Leigh Ortenburger, Galen Rowell, Eric Sanford, Paul Starr, the late Willi Unsoeld, and Ed Webster. They also expressed appreciation for black and white photos from Ed Cooper and Bradford Washburn.

I spent the majority of my time reading (and rereading) the sections on Alaska and Western Canada. I was a little disappointed that the walls around the fjords around Baffin Island weren’t included in any way, but then again they were just coming into “popularity,” as much as popularity gets with climbers, in the 1980s. I had long known that the Cassin Ridge on Denali was one of their 50, where Riccardo Cassin,  Gigi Alippi Luigi Airoldi, Giancarlo Canali, Romano Perego and Annibale Zucchi made the first ascent in 1961, a climb I knew well, historically speaking. But I was suprised that Roper and Steck chose to call the mountain McKinley exclusively; I wondered it Bradford Washburn had anything to do with that.

As you might have realized from previous posts, I have a mountain-crush over Mount Huntington in the Alaska Range, yet I didn’t know it was listed. The route named by Roper and Steck was the west face of Mount Huntington (12,240 ft./ 3,731 m.), which was first ascended by David Roberts, Don Jensen, Ed Bernd and Matt Hale in 1965. It was also the ascent that inspired Roberts’ book The Mountain of My Fear. 

In Canada, one that I have admired for years because it’s in the Cirque of the Unclimbables is Lotus Flower Tower (7,500 ft./2,286 m.) The vertical wall was first climbed in 1968 by Jim McCarthy, Sandy Bill and Tom Frost.

Layton Kor recently passed away — fortunately in old age, albeit in poor health. One of his legendary climbs, and a tower I’d like to reach the top of, is the Titan (5,600 ft./ 1,707 m.) in the southwest.He made the first ascent of the 650-foot climbing route with George Hurley and Huntley Inglalls. It’s listed as number 38.

Copies are still for sale but mostly on the collectors block only. Some are going for several hundreds of dollars though worn and beat up copies may be acquired for as little as $40US. The American Alpine Club Henry S. Hall Library has copies for lending to its members and if you’re out west (unlike me) your library might even have its own copy.

Here is the list, which amounts to the table of contents without the page numbers. Enjoy…

ALASKA AND THE YUKON
1. Mount St. Elias, Abruzzi Ridge
2. Mt. Fairweather, Carpe Ridge
3. Mt. Hunter, W. Ridge
4. Mt. McKinley, Cassin Ridge
5. Moose’s Tooth, W. Ridge
6. Mt. Huntington, W. Face
7. Mt. Logan, Hummingbird Ridge
8. Middle Triple Peak, E. Buttress

WESTERN CANADA
9. Mt. Sir Donald, Northwest Arete
10. Bugaboo Spire, E. Ridge
11. S. Howser Tower, W. Buttress
12. Mt. Robson, Wishbone Arete
13. Mt. Edith Cavell, N. Face
14. Mt. Alberta, Japanese Rt.
15. Mt. Temple, E. Ridge
16. Mt. Waddington, S. Face
17. Devil’s Thumb, East Ridge
18. Lotus Flower Tower

THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST
19. Mt. Rainier, Liberty Ridge
20. Forbidden Peak, W. Ridge
21. Mt. Shuksan, Price Glacier

22. Slesse Mountain, Northwest Buttress
23. Mt. Stuart, N. Ridge
24. Liberty Bell Mountain, Liberty Crack

WYOMING
25. Devil’s Tower, Durrance Rt.
26. Grand Teton, N. Ridge
27. Grand Teton, Direct Exum Ridge
28. Grand Teton, N. Face
29. Mt. Moran, Direct S. Buttress
30. Pingora, Northwest Face
31. Wolf’s Head, E. Ridge

COLORADO
32. Crestone Needle, Ellingwood Ledges
33. Hallett Peak, Northcutt-Carter Route
34. Petit Grepon, S. Face
35. Longs Peak, The Diamond

THE SOUTHWEST
36. Shiprock
37. Castleton Tower, Kor-Ingalls Route
38. The Titan

CALIFORNIA
39. The Royal Arches
40. Lost Arrow Spire
41. Sentinal Rock, Steck-Salathe Rt.
42. Middle Cathedral Rock, E. Buttress
43. Half Dome, NW Face
44. El Capitan, Nose Rt.
45. El Capitan, Salathe Wall
46. Mt. Whitney, E. Face
47. Fairview Dome, N. Face
48. Clyde Minaret, SE Face
49. Charlotte Dome, S. Face
50. Lover’s Leap, Traveler Buttress

Thanks for dropping by again. If you enjoyed this post, please consider following the Suburban Mountaineer on Facebook or Twitter. Climbing matters, even though we work nine to five.

Source: Roper, Steve and Allen Steck, Fifty Classic Climbs of North America, San Franciso, 1979.