More on those Ten Expeditions — Plus Four New Ones

This is a follow-up to my a recent post where I mentioned ten expeditions that received climbing grants. Here I provide some detail on those 10 expeditions that have received one or a combination of Mugs Stump Award or a Lyman Spitzer Cutting Edge Award plus four more that received funding from the Copp Dash Inspire Award. They’ll be attempting new routes in Afghanistan, Alaska, Greenland, the Karakorum, the Himalayas and in Patagonia. Enjoy!


Kohe Pamir — Mick Follari with Dylan Thomas. First ascent of central buttress of Kohe Pamir (6320m) in Afghanistan’s Wahkan Corridor.


Middle Peak, Saint Elias Range — John Frieh — his second attempt 5,000-ft W face of this unclimbed peak, this year with Daniel Harro and Colin Haley.

Mount Hayes — Ryan Johnson and Samuel Johnson will attempt the unclimbed 6,000-ft E face of the south summit — and possibly one of the largest unclimbed in N. America — followed by a ridge traverse to the higher main summit of Mount Hayes.

Mount Deborah — Michael Wejchert with Bayard Russell and Elliot Gaddy. Unclimbed 4,500-foot south face of Mt. Deborah (12,339′) in Alaska’s Hayes Range.

Lowell Peak — Pete Dronkers with Jonathan Crabtree. South Pillar of Lowell Peak (3630m), St. Elias Range, Canada.


Torssukatak Fjord, Cape Farewell — Lizzy Scully with Quinn Brett. First ascents of unclimbed, unnamed big walls and ridges.


East Face of Uli Biaho Tower — Matt McCormick, Pat Goodman, Jean-Pierre Ouellet attempt a new route on the E face

Tahu Rutum (6651m) — Scott Bennett and Graham Zimmerman will attempt the steep mixed NW ridge, expecting everything from rock (free and aid) to ice and mixed.

Shispare Sar (7611m) — Doug Chabot, Rusty Willis and Bruce Miller attempt obvious N ridge route

K6 West (7100m) — Jesse Huey, Raphael Slawinski and Ian Welsted will visit the Charakusa valley to attempt NW face

Tahu Rutum (6651m) and Kunyang Chhish East (7431m) — Kyle Dempster attempted this in 2010 solo. Now, Dempster returns with Hayden Kennedy and Urban Novak for their third season together in the Karakorum to attempt the W face.


Panbari (6905m) — Clint Helander and Mark Westman will go for this remote peak’s second ascent via the south pillar. It was previously not permitted, so the FA was in 2006.

Lunag Ri (6909m), Nepal. Chad Kellogg and David Gottlieb will make their second attempt on the NW face of this mountain, which is currently the highest permitted unclimbed peak in Nepal.


Cerro San Lorenzo — Bryan Gilmore, Mikey Schaefer and Josh Wharton attempt the E face of this peak.

Thanks for dropping by yet again. If you enjoyed this post, and haven’t already, please consider following the Suburban Mountaineer on Facebook or Twitter. I believe climbing matters, even though we work nine to five.

Sources: Alpinist, Alpinist and the American Alpine Club.


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