Climbing

Rarely Climbed Peak is Ascended Again

/ Andrew Szalay / Leave a comment

British climbers Tom Chamberlain and Tony Barton sended a new line up the southwest wall of Huaguruncho (18,776 ft./5,723 m.) in August according UKClimbing.com and Alpinist.  The pics on these sites are well worth checking out.

It took these mountaineers four days to reach the summit on a new line that they are calling Llama Karma (1000m ED/ 90·/V, 24 pitches).  They attempted a similar route with a third teammate in 2008 but were unsuccessful.

What makes this ascent of Huaguruncho so interesting is that it has been successfully topped off by alpinists only three times in fifty years despite other attempts.  Its massif is located on the eastern portion of Peru and only 40 mi./64 km. from the rainforest, which helps attract the precipitation on the mountain, making for some difficulty getting up any part of this pyramid.  If you want to visit it to hike or climb, this link might provide a start: http://www.huaguruncho.com/

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Greenland “Vacation”

/ Andrew Szalay / Leave a comment

I just had to share this story posted on Black Diamond’s site about Jasmin Caton’s and Kate Rutherford’s trip to Greenland.  These girls cleary had a great send on one of the big walls. 

Arguably though, for those of us stuck working nine-to-five in Peaklessburg, it was hardly work.  They  just hung out at the “crag” by the fjord and finished off the wet weather and some nice, outdoor activities at the resort.  What a life!

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The Last of His Kind

/ Andrew Szalay / Leave a comment

To continue my armchair approach to hiking and mountaineering lately, I am happy to report completing read The Last of His Kind: The Life and Adventures of Bradford Washburn, America’s Boldest Mountaineer by David Roberts.

This biography is about David Roberts’ mentor.  As Roberts said of Washburn and his remarkable accomplishments in Alaska, “not only is he one of a kind, but as one of a kind they don’t make any more.”  The book is a wonderful tribute to Alaska’s greatest mountaineer.  Washburn was an explorer in Alaska, photographer and the Director of the Boston Museum of Science.  The book is a wonderful survey of earlier climbing and the great man’s life off the rock and ice.

While there are numerous other books on Washburn and while he is part of many other stories, the point this book makes that is most unique is about Washburn’s mountain photography.  His work is distinct from others like Ansel Adams and Roberts identifies why: Washburn took photos of mountains to document the mountain and possible routes.  They were archived records rather than artistic works, though they are certainly appreciated by mountain lovers like me.

Even in some of his controversies, Washburn is hard to dislike and even harder to unappreciate his strengths after reading this story, which is typical of a biography by a “fan” like Roberts.  Regardless, and unfortunately, because of the times and the evolution of mountaineering and exploration, there will never be another like him.

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Mount Fitz Roy: A Mountain Day Dream for Hikers and Climbers

/ Andrew Szalay / Leave a comment

Scattered among the usual errands between the condo and the new super supermarket wearing a comfortable pair of loafers with tassels, I do what I enjoy most – pretending I am getting ready for a eco adventure I don’t have the time or money to go on.  Where now?  Mount Fitz Roy (11,073 ft./3,375 m.) in Argentine Patagonia.

Patagonia is romanticized a great deal for its rugged and basic qualities.  Charles Darwin made observations there that lead up to his theory of evolution.  The weather is legendary for being capable of intense wind, intense rain and intense sun, and never when you prefer it.  The landscape is mixed forest, tundra and alpine mountains, comparable to the Dolomites in Italy or parts of the Karakorum in Pakistan.  But what makes it so beautiful is the contrast of the vertical spires of granite against crisp, lush blue skies and green landscapes.

It is a land of mountains without being exclusively or isolated among the mountains, such as in the heart of the Alaska Range or parts of the Rockies.  You can find isolation if that is what you seek, no problem, but the towns in the region, like El Chalten, can provide some amenities for those of us traveling with significant others and children that prefer to “hike” and “climb” from a rocking chair and binoculars (not that there is anything wrong with that).

Fitz Roy is so iconic for Patagonia that if you’re a climber there are few new things to do; all news about climbing Fitz Roy is about variations of routes or linkups, like the climbs Freddie Wilkinson and Dana Drummond made in February 2008.  Regardless, it has been a great day dream.  Here are some facts that I have accumulated about Fitz Roy over the years in case you decide to go:

  • Location: Parque Nacional Los Glacieres, Argentina, South America
  • Summit Elevation: 11,073 ft./3,375 m.
  • First Ascent: February 2, 1952 by the great French alpinist, Lionel Terray with Guido Magnone
  • Traditional Climbing Routes: 15 accepted “standard routes” have been established, including the Franco-Argentine route, 600 m., VI/VI+A2, and most new ascents are actually only variations of established climbs on Fitz Roy
  • Hiking Trails: Several trails can take travelers to backcountry locations with spectacular views like the Laguna de los Tres trail
  • Camping: Several campgrounds including near the village of El Chalten; a climbers-only camp is located en route to Laguna de los Tres
  • Getting There: Fly (US$3,000-6,000 airfare from North America) to El Calfate and board a bus for the ride just under four hours to El Chalten
  • Outfitting: Suppliers carry most goods, but do not depend on isobutene fuels for your stove.  Instead pack a multi-fuel stove like the Whisperlite International
  • Recommended Reading: Mountaineering in Patagonia by Alan Kearney (1993)

I hope this provides some inspiration or at least some escapism.  Now it is time for me to head for the subway and grab a latte from the café before work.  Have a good week, everyone!

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A Fee Increase for Rainier and Denali

/ Andrew Szalay / Leave a comment

Word has it that the fees charged by the National Park Service (NPS) for climbing Mount Rainier and Denali are going to increase significantly.  I go back and forth on whether it is ethical to charge anyone anywhere for hiking and climbing.  I am beginning to think there may be some reasons to do so.

The NPS has enjoyed implementing user fees to supplement their budget shortfall over recent years.  Their budget is allocated by Congress through appropriations.  With the down economy, U.S. spending deficit, and other political factors, federal public land maintenance is not a top priority.  It never has been for that matter.  And that is a good thing; too much money for the NPS may mean too many grandiose interpretive centers and not enough wilderness.  So extra cash from the visitors that use the park seems reasonable.

It is probably acceptable to charge fees for any mountain anywhere where the trails are so popular the routes are trampled with refuse, not to mention higher management costs of searches and rescues (SARs).  Rainier passes that test.  Mount McKinley?  Probably.  Ben Nevis?  Not sure.  But doubling the price to play?  That seems tough.

Shouldn’t an increase that big be implemented over a long period of time?  I guess when the park service is funded less, the still popular parks have to fund their services somehow.  I’m sorry that the park service feels it has to come so suddenly.

I’m really sorry for the cash strapped climber that just spent his savings on his new rack and crampons.  Well, there is always next season, boss…

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Lying Climber… Another One

/ Andrew Szalay / Leave a comment

It was reported yesterday that Austrian climber Christian Stangl is correcting his earlier story.  He claimed that he was the only mountaineer to top out on K2 this season.  Stangle recently confessed that he only reached about 27,200 ft./8,290 m. up the mountain.  Stangl says he lied because of sponsor pressure. 

Earlier this summer, Korean climber Oh Eun-Sun lied to the climbing community to claim that she was the first woman to reach the world’s 14 meter peaks (see the post Peak Baggers’ Integrity and its link for more informtain.)