More Winter Break Reading

I grew up with the Polish Christmas tradition of Wigilia (pronounced with a V and the G is silent — hence Vil-e-ah). On Christmas Eve, after the first star shined, we would sit down to a nine-course meal that included grains and pirogies. Before saying grace we would visit everyone at the table with a rice wafer — an oplatki — that we would break off a small piece after making a wish for the other person for the new year. I’d like to break off a piece with all of my readers and wish you a year of satisfying adventure!

So with that, I decided to list out ten of The Suburban Mountaineer’s most popular posts, particularly for the new Facebook and Twitter followers that might not have read them yet.  Like all of my posts, they cover climbing trends and culture by pulling on the knowledge I’ve accumulated over the years from my obsession for mountain wilderness, big ambitious and my dedication to armchair mountaineering.

If you haven’t checked them out yet, I hope you enjoy them…

  1. Fritz Wiessner and Dudley Wolfe on K2
  2. Lessons from the Yosemite Waterfall Tragedy
  3. Why the European Guide Certification is Still the Benchmark
  4. Rarely Visited Sikkim: 2010 Expedition
  5. The Remaining 8,000ers Winter Ascents
  6. Age, National Pride and Everest
  7. Recycle Camp Stove Fuel Canisters
  8. Mount Fitz Roy: A Mountain Day Dream for Hikers and Climbers
  9. Carpe Climb ‘Em: Follow Through on Your Life List
  10. Several Perish on Denali in 2011

Thanks for dropping by again. If you enjoyed the insights of this post and the many others, please consider following the Suburban Mountaineer on Facebook or Twitter. Carpe climb ‘em and have a Happy New Year!

Winter Break Reading

The winter solstice has come, the days are getting longer and it looks like it will be a dry winter, especially in the northeastern part of North America, unfortunately.  I hear the Front Range in Colorado is getting snow, however. That’s good.

I asked Santa for a snowy season in Peaklessburg, but it looks more like I am getting a lump of coal; I don’t know what I did to deserve this again.

I wanted to recommend just a couple of good winter reads for those of you taking a bit of time off work around the holidays with some R&R time. They are all Internet accessible and freely available:

  • Skagit Alpinism Colin Haley’s blog. He’s in Patagonia for their summer and he has already provided some worthwhile updates.
  • James Pearson’s blog His climbs are not as well known to North Americans but they ought to be. His blog is updated infrequently but worth checking out, even if just for his quality photography.
  • Matt McCormick’s blog A native of Vermont and a good alpinist, his posts bring you into the climb — often with just trip reports but he often shares more color than that of what might go in the AAJ.
  • Mountain Rescue Blog This blog by a first responder, Ethan Zook, gives information and matters to consider. We all engage in some risk so let’s embrace it. However, at the same time let’s be prepared for that off percentage of things that go wrong.

Thanks for dropping by again. If you enjoyed this post, please consider following the Suburban Mountaineer on Facebook or Twitter. Carpe climb ‘em, have a happy holiday season and Merry Christmas!

The Driven and Irrational Adventurer: Maurice Wilson

Maurice Wilson… He comes up now and then – like earlier this year in Climbing magazine. Then I stumbled upon several other short pieces on him. He is a curiosity to climbers and non-climbers alike, though he took being nutcase to new levels… literally. Which probably makes him one of our own, unfortunately.

When people say climbers are crazy, I think the phrase was originally intended for Wilson. He was not a pilot and he was not a mountaineer, but he flew his own plane to Darjeeling, India, snuck into forbidden Tibet and attempted Everest in 1934. Then again, when has climbing ever been sensible?

What brought him to this climb was a mix of events in his quest for answers. What he was asking was not always certain as he was a bit of a wonderer. Wilson was born in Bradford, Yorkshire in 1898 and fought in the worst of World War I. He returned home a hero – earning the Military Cross – but was also injured and shell shocked. After the war, he had all the symptoms we know today as Post Traumatic Stress Disorder. From this, he developed wonderment at the body’s ability to heal itself. However, for years afterwards, partly from his trauma, he suffered from various health complaints for years.

He grew restless and traveled to New York, then San Francisco hoping to find peace. He moved again to New Zealand running a couple of small businesses and married and separated two times in that span. Suddenly he returned home to England. En route, he met some yogis in Bombay. The yogis told him about many things, but what seemed pertinent to Wilson was about faith healing, including the importance of fasting. These, he felt, were the secret to overcoming his ailments.

When he returned to England – after encircling the globe – he had discovered the purpose he wanted to pursue. Mount Everest was back in the news after several years of no access through its host countries, but now Tibet was permitting climbers to approach the mountain once again. Wilson believed he would go there himself and climb it alone, proving the value of faith healing and the body’s strength. He did some “training” in Snowdonia to prepare and declared himself ready.

He also bought a used Gypsy Moth airplane and got licensed. As Lawrence Millman said, “That he earned his pilot’s license is indicative of the loose, if not downright unfettered standards of the day.” He crashed once before ever leaving England and then, a month later, started the journey again, taking him to Darjeeling, India.

The British in India refused his entry into Tibet, so he did what any single-minded adventurer did, he snuck in by disguising himself as a Sherpa and walked the rest of the way. Along the way in Tibet, he borrowed an ice axe, which he would us, and found discarded crampons but not knowing what they were for he cast them away again. Much was his innocence.

Of course, this story does not have a happy ending. Wilson hacked steps and made no progress anywhere toward the summit and was promptly beaten back by the weather. He returned with the help of two Sherpa guides that pointed out the proper route. Wilson and one of the Sherpas made it as high as Camp IV. His drive and Snowdonia training could not have prepared him for this: He started avalanches and broke ribs in a separate fall. He returned to camp again only to tune up his determination.

The Sherpas refused to go with him again. His diary was found later and its final entry read: “Off again, gorgeous day…”

Thanks again for dropping by. If you enjoyed this post, please considering following the Suburban Mountaineer on Facebook or Twitter.

Sources: 1) Conefrey, Mick and Tim Jordan, Chapter 6 of Mountain Men, “The Misplaced Optimism of Maurice Wilson” (2001); and 2) Millman, Lawrence, “Our Man in Everest: Maurice Wilson Surfaces Every Few Years, Only to be Dutifully Reburied,” The High Lonesome, John Long ed. (1999).

Ulysses’ Social Temptations and Compromises

I can’t help but think of Ulysses on his odyssey these days. When the battle was over, he and his men set sail for home. The uncharted territory was sea-gone wilderness. His ship was essentially alone in the world to the point where everything they just left and everything back at home was irrelevant to their experience of the moment — they were entirely independent in every sense. No one at home knew how they were or even whether they would return.

Finding comparable adventures that are escapes from connections of our home and battles of daily life have to be sought out — often vigorously — in this day and age. As the New York Times article entitled On the Ledge and Online that seems to have circulated all over Facebook and Twitter among outdoors enthusiasts says, even the outdoor adventures we often use to be independent and alone are not necessarily the solitary adventure of Ulysses and his crew.

Since the advent of the telegraph and the railroad in the 1800s during the Industrial Age — the precursor to the Information Age, our quest for such dis-connections for renewal were often found in the hills through hiking and mountain climbing. (This was aided by the rise in popularity of walking for fitness and competitions — called pedestrianism — which was a first in England around the same time.) What was once just a method for military movements and ways of merchants, now became a wonderfully frivolous activity for mankind.

As a blogger and a dedicated armchair mountaineer, I rely on those social media connections to follow active climbers as well as the happenings around my favorite mountain destinations. But how much connectivity is too much? Suddenly alpinists  are sending Tweets from the summit of Mount Everest and the walls of Yosemite — during their climbs. Climbers have already spent energy and resources filming their climbs and writing daily dispatches to their fans. The biggest offenders in this area are usually sponsors, and in the English language media, are usually The North Face and National Geographic.

Many go to the wilderness to be Ulysses and escape the notion of being constantly in contact and enjoy being wild — in the nature sense, not the party animal sense. However when climbers take up sponsorships they are often subject to certain terms. Updating Facebook pages and sending Tweets can be quite beneficial to drawing a market’s attention to a sponsor, particularly during a well publicized attempt at a route.

However, it can also be like bringing those people with you. When I take a family vacation from work in my nation’s capital, I try to leave the smartphone from my job turned off, otherwise, my time away is often no different than an ordinary weekend.

Many sponsored climbers are attaining the status of professional athletes of popularized team sports. Their responsibilities as celebrities — including during their expeditions — to their fans and followers adds a new element to how we enjoy our sport. I think amateur climbers seeking wilderness will appreciate their amateur status all the more.

Interestingly, following climbers through social media has some broadly reaching benefits. For example, I also follow bobsled competitions. It’s a somewhat obscure sport. Without the posts of Olympic Gold Medelist Steve Holcomb and the team’s blog, I wouldn’t be able to follow them as closely as I do my favorite baseball team. Living vicariously through someone else’s alpine endeavors, whether they are reported live or after the expedition is irrelevant to me — just tell your story.

The use of social media in the mountains by climbers — while it should be discouraged for the purposes of being Ulysses — is likely to build a larger, more-informed audience for the sport. The real question is where does this take the sport next? Edelweiss and I believe that the younger generation of climbers that use social networks to a greater extent than my generation may continue to inject social connections during climbs. That is, unless, those younger climbers seeking the mountains are trying following the path of Ulysses.

Thanks for dropping by again. If you enjoyed the insights of this post and the many others, please consider following the Suburban Mountaineer on Facebook or Twitter. Happy reading and carpe climb ’em!

Sources: 1) Lowther, Alex, “On the Ledge and Online: Solitary Sport turns Social,” New York Times, December 9, 2011; 2) Graham Brown, Thomas and Sir Gavin Byland DeBeers, The First Ascent of Mont Blanc, Oxford University Press, London, 1957, p. 11.

Four Winter Attempts Set for Karakorum

Here is an update in case you hadn’t heard. Climbing magazine’s website is reporting that not only is a Russian Team attempting K2 this winter but that Italian alpinist Simone Moro and Kazakhstan climber Denis Urubko will leave on Boxing Day (December 26th) to attempt Nanga Parbat via the Diamir Face. Another small Polish team, led by Piotr Strzezysz, will also attempt Nanga Parbat. Lastly, an international team will try to summit Gasherbrum I. This leaves, at last news, only Broad Peak not to be addressed this season.

Why does this matter? Because only four of the 14 Himalayan mountains over 8,000 meters have not yet been summited in winter. It’s particularly significant in the scope of mountaineering challenges. For instance, these record firsts are not trivial firsts or firsts that interests only a nationality (like the first American to climb Annapurna,) or a gender (first woman to climb the the 8,000ers without supplemental oxygen, for instance.)

Too many qualifiers means it’s not universally important. The important firsts are those of the challenge of first ascent, first alpine style ascent and often the first ascent in winter — regardless or who accomplishes the climb in terms of nationality, race or gender. While the qualifiers matter, the unqualified accomplishment is broadly significant.

So that’s something to live vicariously with. I’ll keep you posted… I hope you will do me the same favor…

Thanks for dropping by again. If you enjoyed this post, please consider following the Suburban Mountaineer on Facebook or Twitter. Happy reading and carpe climb ’em!

When is Challenging Objective Risk Foolish?

A couple of weeks ago, the KAF (South Korea’s alpine club) and some outsiders were talking about altering their culture around climbing in order to prevent unnecessary loss of life. This specifically applied to their expeditions to the world’s high profile mountaineering objectives.

On October 17, 2011 Park Young-seok, Gang Gi-seok and Shin Dong-min died — and vanished — shortly after reporting to base camp of significant rock fall on Annapurna (25,545 ft./8,091 m.) Then on November 11, 2011, Kim Hyung-il and Chang Ji-myeong fell to their death attempting a route on Cholatse (21,128 ft./6,440 m.) in the Himalaya. All were KAF alpinists and all were pushing their limits as well as the conventional tolerance for objective risks.

While falling is the inherent objective risk in all climbing, the other high risks are the hazards of rock fall, avalanches and crevasses. The majority of climbers, by contrast — at least from North America — tend to avoid the terrain with the highest risk due to conditions increasing the danger from such hazards. Avalanche awareness and safety training, for example, teaches climbers and other mountain enthusiasts to identify risky areas based on a combination of factors, including slope, weather conditions and so forth. Sometimes avalanche danger is more obvious due to tumbling rocks (its own hazard alone) or frequent releases of snow on neighboring slopes.

As I see it, the South Korean alpine climbing community is facing a challenge on what it considers to be a bold opportunity for achieving success and what is just plain foolish. This is not a new issue. Jonathan Waterman mentions this issue in his guidebook and history book, High Alaska, regarding the another Asian climbing culture, the one in Japan:

Japanese climbers are often willing to justify objective danger, particularly avalanche-prone routes, that other nationalities won’t touch. It has been speculated that this emanates from their traditional enlightened view that life has been predetermined and that there is rebirth after death. Also, as there are many climbers in Japan climbing is more competitive, Japanese climbers must often do outrageous climbs in order to make their names known.

The Japanese climbers known as the Giri Giri Boys spring to mind. Two members of this group died in one of their numerous attempts to push their own and the mountain’s limits, though their accomplishments — particularly on climbs in North America — are genuinely impressive.

As for the crisis in South Korea, the issue is more readily understood by other climbers. There are fundamental risks in the sport. Nonclimbers typically do not understand or are unwilling to accept the risks. That’s fair. But when does the situation with the KAF in that it might be perpetuating a culture of competition that fuels acceptance of unnecessary risk, I don’t know.

A look at the statistics of their previous climbs over time would provide the best insight on whether their conventional approach to big mountains are indeed more hazardous than necessary. Even then, to make a cultural change, they will need a strong leader that can influence the climbers in South Korea to accept the idea that change is needed.

Thanks for dropping by again. If you enjoyed this post, please consider following the Suburban Mountaineer on Facebook or Twitter. Happy reading and carpe climb ’em!

Source of quote: Waterman, Jonathan, High Alaska: A Historical Guide to Denali, Mount Foraker and Mount Hunter, AAC Press, 2nd Ed. 1996, pp. 177-178.