Bhutan is Forbidden but Sikkim is Open

When it comes to the Himalayas, you probably think solely about Nepal and Pakistan. Well, India and China have some big peaks too, and so does the country of Bhutan. In fact, the mountains to the east of Nepal are rather interesting as I was recently reminded.

The highest unclimbed mountain may never be topped out and may remain the highest unclimbed mountain indefinitely. It seems the only way anyone will climb Gankhar Puensum (7,570 m.) on the China-Bhutan border is to cheat; it’s a sacred peak to the Bhutanese, like all Bhutanese mountains, and climbing it is forbidden by law.

Interestingly, China has helped enforce that edict once. However, that may have more to do with spiting the Japanese who were seeking approval to climb the mountain. It’s just a guess since things are not always friendly between them.

The region between Nepal and Bhutan, east of the third highest mountain in the world, Kangchenjunga, is Sikkim. For all practical purposes it was shutdown to mountaineering and travel in general because it was disputed by Nepal, China and India. In 2004 China released its claim and things settled down. While there are sacred peaks in Sikkim, there are several that are designated as “alpine peaks,” which are available to be climbed with a permit.

At my last American Alpine Club section meeting (Blue Ridge Section), I was introduced to a member of the 2010 Expedition to Sikkim. Their primary aim was Jopuno (5,936 m.) for a second ascent by a new route. Anyway, I’ll tell you more about Sikkim, the expedition and the opportunities later… There is a lot to tell.

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Rainier’s Elevation Controversy

During my research time on Mount Rainier I regularly came across an inconsistency. Some of the references to Mount Rainier list it as 14,410 ft. and others add on a foot to make it 14,411 ft. above sea level. So which is it?

The National Parks Service lists it “officially” as 14,410 ft. and so does National Geographic’s Trails Illustrated Map (No. 217) of the park. But a new measure, done in 1989 by the Land Surveyors Association of Washington, placed its elevation a foot higher.

While some respect the new measurement, most others – including the National Parks Service – are slow to update their maps and records. Maybe they never will. Measuring elevation is more of an art to get at science. Today, surveyors use high tech equipment like lasers and satellite GPS. However, the key information inputted to provide the output of elevation is still based on several judgment calls. These judgments include what might (or might not be) accepted as the average sea level as a starting place and then using that data and applying it to a location many miles away from the sea. It’s remarkable that we can get as accurate as we can.

So which is right? Well, if you are not certain you can always take the approach of Alpine Ascents International, one of the guide concessions in the park; as of July 5, 2011, their website reports both (one in the header and the other in the body) on their Mount Rainier Program page.

But does it really matter? Not in such a minute denomination. When Bradford Washburn and National Geographic revised Mount Everest’s height it was more dramatic – adding on six feet. After all, it doesn’t change the fact that Mount Rainier dominates Puget Sound’s skyline.

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Sources: 1) Hill, Craig, “The True Measure of a Mountain,” The News Tribune, Feb. 16, 2009; 2) Mount Rainier National Park website; 3) Alpine Ascents International website; and 4) Filley, Bette, The Big Fact Book About Mount Rainier: Fascinating Facts, Records, Lists, Topics, Characters and Stories, Dunamis House, 1996.

Mount Rainier’s Trailhead

To hikers and climbers near Puget Sound, Paradise isn’t in the afterlife or an abstract idea for a Caribbean beach, it’s an actual place. Paradise is an area of reference in the National Park Service map and the name of a valley in the same region of Mount Rainier. The name is also synonymous with the starting point for most visitors’ adventures in Mount Rainier National Park.

Coming from Tacoma or Seattle, people normally pass through Ashford on route 706 – where the guide concessions are located – and enter the park through the Nisqually Entrance in the southwestern corner of the park. From there, visitors continue to the Longmire Museum or just drive straight to Paradise – just 16 miles from the entrance. The road in Paradise itself is mainly in the Paradise Valley. (Keep in mind, road access is limited in the winter based on conditions.)

When most people think of a valley they think of it as the deepest area between two mountainous slopes. Paradise Valley is not a valley like that. Instead it’s actually elevated. It is actually a broad shoulder of the mountain with elevated features on three sides of its plain. On the north end, flowing into Paradise Valley, is Sluiskin Falls – named for the Indian warrior guide to Stevens and Van Trump in 1870 I wrote about earlier – and Narada Falls on the southern end. The water plummets about 200 feet from Narada Falls and out of the “valley.”

Paradise Valley is technically a “hanging valley.” It is also what is left of a glacial cirque. Treeline is approximately 7,000 feet elevation, and Paradise sits at approximately 5,400. There, at that elevation, in winter the landscape can see 30 feet of snow. It buries the Paradise Inn on the western rim of the valley, only to melt and give way to some amazing alpine meadows.

For non hikers and climbers, Paradise is often where the journey stops, but oh what a view! From this hanging valley of alpine flora, you have a front row seat to take in the mountain. If you thought Rainier seemed enormous from Puget Sound, here it would make your HD television’s definition wanting. From there, you can take in the Nisqually Glacier, Gibralter Rock, the edge of the Emmons Glacier and Point Success.

For the hikers and climbers, Paradise is just the starting point. If you’re inclined to hike, there are several trails around Paradise for brisk walk to take in the views or pick up the Wonderland Trail – which circumnavigates the mountain – from the base of Narada Falls. For the climbers, this is where the ascent really begins. More on that later.

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Sources: 1) Schmoe, Floyd, A Year in Paradise: A Personal Experience on Mount Rainier in the Early 1900s, The Mountaineers (1999); 2) National Park Service’s Mount Rainier website.

Help Support the Most Significant Climbs

When it comes to books, maps and guidebooks, our genre of mountaineering and mountain life is a niche subject even among outdoors publications. But the importance to us as climbers to have a record of past climbs and their stories is just as important to us as having the current map and the latest guidebook. This is why having and supporting the American Alpine Club Library is so important.

The AAC Library contains the largest collection of mountaineering and mountain culture literature and information in the world. It archives the world’s most significant climbs through periodicals, like the American Alpine Journal, mountaineering tales, including best sellers and even out of print texts. It also holds many rare and foreign texts. Climbers about to embark on the next legendary epic, often start here.

Now the AAC Library is raising funds for its work by offering Mountain by Sandy Hill. Mountain is a book of highland photography including works by Ansel Adams, Vittorio Sella, and many others including never-before-seen photos by Bradford Washburn. The book is not yet available to the public, however the AAC Library  is currently accepting pre-orders of Mountain.

I encourage you to consider purchasing the book or contributing what you can to the Library. Climbers and armchair mountaineers will thank you by maintaining this for the climbing community we love.

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Rainier’s First Celebrated Ascent: 1870

They must be spirits, he thought. They had gone up the south face of Mount Rainier and they should not have come back. He had warned them. He had heard there was a horrible pool of fire at the top. But after a little more observation from afar, Sluiskin, the Yakima Warrior from the Battle of Grande Ronde and now their guide, was relieved and thrilled they were truly alive.

Sluiskin learned they had been to the top and he was overjoyed. Hazard Stephens and Philemon Beecher Van Trump, had summited Mount Rainier on August 18th, 1870. It was the first documented ascent of Mount Rainier.

Hazard Stevens was already a force to be reckoned with. He had some advantages as he was the son of the first governor of the Washington Territory. However, he had already proven himself with valor: Stevens had earned the Congressional Medal of Honor for his courage in battle during the American Civil War. After the war he returned and became – as you and I would – captivated by Mount Rainier. But admiring it from Puget Sound was not satisfying.

Stevens had met Van Trump and they became friends because they shared a common passion for approaching and attempting Mount Rainier. But it was their meeting of Thomas Edward Coleman, a British Subject and one of the original climbers among the Alps. He gave them the final nudge to commit themselves to the task and together they headed into the backcountry of Washington without roads.

Sluiskin was hired as their guide to get them through the forest and down the Nisqually River to Mount Rainier; he took his time in order to work and be paid for more days.

Coleman was more of an irritant or comic relief on the journey. Each day he insisted on bathing or at least making a sponge bath, no matter what the inconvenience required. He also sipped tea as his colleagues made camp. Most amusing of all, he filled his own canteen with whiskey instead of water, which he emptied part way to the mountain; he was mildly stunned at the pace Stevens and Van Trump intended to proceed.

Coleman could not make the final attempt as he lost his pack (it fell when he set it down) climbing a nearby slope. Though they lost the bacon for protein, Stevens and Van Trump were determined to press on. I will use contemporary names for these landmarks: They ascended from the Paradise River, walked up the Muir Snowfield, climbed up Cowlitz Cleaver (with a good view of Gibraltar Rock), trudged over Camp Misery and onto the summit proper. They only carried an alpenstock, creepers (similar to crampons), rope, ice axe (like a navy axe of the day), a canteen, lunch, gloves, goggles, a plate, flags, and ascended without coats or blankets.

They believed they could make the ascent in a day, but were forced to spend the night near the top in an ice cave. Van Trump injured his leg on the decent, but that did little to dampen their victory. They were not ghosts, they were Puget Sound’s latest heroes!

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Sources: 1) Haines, Aubrey L., Mountain Fever: Historic Conquests of Rainier, Oregon Historical Society, 1962; 2) National Parks Service website.

Beyond the Mountain

Beyond the Mountain is the alpine climbing autobiography of Steve House. For those of you not familiar with House, he is a progressive mountain climber that is known for great alpine challenges, or, as Reinhold Messner put it in the forward, “He climbs the right routes on the right mountains in a time when everyone is climbing Everest.” Generally, it is an engrossing, intense and at moments even offensive story about climbing at the highest possible level. He takes his reader straight into the action of his climbs from 1989 through 2004 without hesitation.

The book addresses House’s introduction to alpinism through the Slovenian student exchange program he was a part of when he was nineteen years old and the trip he took with his Slovenian hosts to Nanga Parbat and first the Rupal Face. He also addresses his most impactful climbs personally and in the climbing community, including a lightning ascent of the Slovak Direct Route on Denali and even a multi-expedition trip to conquer K7 in the Charakusa Valley of Pakistan, plus his ascents with famed-mountaineer, guide and one of his mentor’s, Barry Blanchard, in the Canadian Rockies.

The main take away from this story is about greatness. Steve House is a great climber. He’s got the 10,000 hours put in that qualify him as an expert climber. Not only that, he has an additional 10,000 hours on the most challenging peaks and alpine walls of our day to boot! The book gets at the idea of commitment as the way to greatness. Whole commitment. Maybe obsession is a better word. The book is worth the read if you want to be challenged to climb better and is inspiring to the armchair mountaineer on the idea of pursuing a goal relentlessly.

Of course, the goal that House chose was one that opened the door to the top without the potential for disappointment, unless he quit or died trying. While he started his young climbing career as wanting to be good enough to climb the Rupal Face, he matured and dogmatically pursued becoming the best alpine climber he could become. Whether he is the best is up for debate, but he is certainly in the top five of climbers currently climbing.

He continues to climb. He recently returned from climbing Makalu in the Himalayas. Beyond the Mountain was not a complete autobiography, but it was a milestone in climbing literature for its forthrightness and a rare chance at intimacy with a private, self-motivated climber that has a lot of life issues and value propositions that might offend, but his output from the equation of his life in climbing has netted out to being remarkable.

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