Training for Climbing: Square One

If you haven’t climbed in a while because of life, career or family has taken you to Peaklessburg, training to climb by just climbing is almost impossible, and yet that’s what the experts tell you to do. In fact, I reached out to a climbing guide in the Adirondacks recently about climbing some routes on Gothics (everyone needs a goal). Since I haven’t climbed seriously in years, I also asked for his advice about training, as in how I should prepare for this climb. He responded with the answer I’ve found unhelpful for years: “To prepare to climb any route you need to climb, simple as that…”

Despite this, I remained hopeful that there was a way to maintain general climber fitness, even if my skills deteriorate from lack of practice, without climbing. However, it’s difficult to get at climbing training information while avoiding what I would call extreme training regimens of super alpinists. I admire the climbers that maintain that level of fitness but it’s impractical for me, and maybe you too. But I have taken serious looks at them to see what truths might be applied to acheive goals on the more modest end of the spectrum.

I’ve been impressed by Rob Shaul’s programs at Mountain Athlete in Jackson, Wyoming and Mark Twight’s Gym Jones. Twight is better known and created the popular 300 Workout used by a lot of ambitious people. Shaul’s program, on the other hand, is more specific to mountaineering, though it appeals to military personnel too.

At Mountain Athlete, Shaul applies the fundamentals strength training to achieve of power, stamina and durability. This is especially important for professional mountain guides because they are “industrial athletes,” as he refers to them, that rely on their daily, physical work to earn their livelihood. However, Shaul’s standard for personal fitness is beyond my goal, such as lifting twice your body weight. I would like to do that, but to do so I would have to rearrange my life priorities too much, which is beyond my interest.

I have also looked to well-known, successful climbers like Ed Viesturs and Steve House. Like their approaches to climbing as well as their public persona, their advice differs. The advice based on Viesturs’ workouts talks about the exercises mainly. House gives his own advice on his blog and he doesn’t fret about giving technical advice. For instance, he explains the absolute need for training phases and varying the routine and taking rest days in order to build strength, finesse and speed.

Having explored those avenues, I turned to the American Alpine Club Henry S. Hall, Jr. Library and borrowed Training for Climbing: The Definitive Guide to Imrpove Your Performance by Eric J. Hörst. After reading House’s blog, which is informative but just introductory, Hörst’s book is in depth and reminded me of the text book in my college health class (I took it one of two required science classes.) It goes through what you should know to create your own training program. It does presume a baseline climber fitness level, but it also explains what that level is.

Hörst seems to answer all of my questions. I’ve learned that he role of running is to help increase my VO2 max alone and that training doughnuts are not ideal for training for several reasons except in special cases like injury rehab or obtaining a baseline grip strength. What he emphasizes you focus on is 1) grip strength, 2) lock-off strength, 3) lunging power, and 4) core strength. He goes into each in great detail.

He also clears up the key issue of whether climbing alone is the only means of preparing to climb. He acknowledges that climbing skills cannot be learned through strength training: “Skill practice is paramount, since climbing skills and tactics are distinctly unique from those of other sports. Only going climbing will make you a more skilled climber.”

But the rest of his book — all 11 chapters and 247 pages — address making you a better climber by enhancing your strength needed for climbing. He provides the principles to apply, the reasoning behind them, and what they do to make you a stronger, fitter athlete for climbing.

Thanks for dropping by again. If you enjoyed this post, please consider following the Suburban Mountaineer on Facebook or Twitter. Happy reading and carpe climb ’em!

Sources: 1) Hörst, Eric J., Training for Climbing: The Definitive Guide to Improving Your Performance, 2nd ed., Falcon Guides, 2008; 2) Shaul, Rob, “Mountain Athlete: Weight Training for Climbing,” Alpinist.com, June 4, 2008; and 3) House, Steve, “The First Entry,” Training Blog.

Dragons Slayed and McDonald Awarded

Bernadette McDonald having received the AAC Literary Award (taken by Bryan Rafferty and shared with permission from the AAC)

The American Alpine Club Benefit Dinner was held in Boston at the beginning of the month. It’s nice to have it on the east coast now and then. Edelweiss and I talked about attending, but we had a lot of excuses — top of the list was taking care of our new Wunderkind. So I am grateful to a few people associated with the AAC for helping me live vicariously once again from my cage in Peaklessburg.

The featured event of the evening was the celebration of the first ascent of Saser Kangri II (24,665ft./7,518m.), which was the second highest unclimbed peak in the world, located in the greater Himalaya of Northern India. The American team ascended the southwest face alpine style to establish The Old Breed (WI4 M3, 1700m), which as reported by Alpinist.com, “[O]ne of the highest first ascents of a peak in alpine style in the history of mountaineering.”

Perhaps the most significant piece from the accomplishment was that another giant has fallen. It’s sad, in a way, to witness this transition from an age of romance and unknowns on the map to… something else. That something else involves new challenges, but they stem from a level of familiarity. Then again, I think most explorers — climbers included — think they were born too late. The giants are still giants, but they’ve all been tackled.

And this is why there is mountain literature to pass on the stories and see the world as it was perceived then or to put the new challenges in a proper light. In part, for this reason, Bernadette McDonald was given the AAC Literary Award at the dinner.

 

Bernadette McDonald has written several books on mountaineering, including one recently to great acclaim. Freedom Climbers is about Polish alpinists that dominated high altitude climbing in the 1970s and 80s. It has received other significant awards, including at her native Banff Mountain Film & Book Festival, the Boardman Tasker in the United Kingdom and now at the AAC Benefit Dinner.

From all of these reports, McDonald’s work is both insightful and appears to strike the cord that appeals to both mountaineering experts and those that crave a good adventure story. However, she is also telling a story of a strong people that has often gone unrecognized; the Poles have faced great political and social adversity in the 20th Century and yet they excelled in the hills.

Today, the Polish alpinists are continuing to work at their goal of climbing all of the 8,000 meter peaks in the Himalaya in winter — in fact, Artur Hajzer’s team just summitted Gasherbrum I last week! The leader of their alpine club set forth a mandate that they grab those first winter ascents for the good of national pride and for being a role model to their youth. The grand record of all 14 is out now, but the quest continues.

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Lodging, Glamor and the Wilderness Experience

My wife and I are searching for my family’s vacation destination for this summer. Camping as I want it isn’t on the table; while Edewiess’ idea of camping doesn’t require the Four Seasons Whistler, it was nice! We went, we zip-lined, we enjoyed a bottle of wine and a really nice pool with food service. That, as we both know, is not camping.

The field of outdoors recreation spans a spectrum that covers, surprisingly, diverse audiences. Both camping and fashion styles ranges from traditional “roughing it” to the highly sophisticated. The hardcore roughing it parts I embrace. Then there is the outdoor inspired fashions that are really only meant to be worn apres ski, for the most part.

As for camping, almost everyone has a different idea of what it is. A few years ago, a friend of mine, originally from Texas and drives a big diesel pickup, suggested he and I go camping in Shenandoah. He wanted to make a fire and cook our dinner while enjoying some beers outdoors. Sounded good to me. Our differences surfaced when we humped packs and carried a cooler three miles down a trail to land where campfires were permitted. He was cursing me the next day and we never went camping together again. He would have been fine pulling off the side of the road at some formal campgrounds. To me, that is not camping.

Then there is glamping. I don’t like this artificial conjunction, but the idea isn’t detestable. Glam or glamorous camping, is somewhere between the Four Seasons and my Shenandoah trip. Edelweiss would go for this! It’s actually an old aristocratic form of camping. If you think about an old African safari movie where the explorers have a big tent, a real bed, often rocking chairs and a full-sized porcelain bathtub within a tent, then that’s pretty close.

While glam camping is trendy now, some great explorers embraced it with panache. The great mountain explorer Luigi Amedeo, the Italian Duke of Abruzzi, brought a brass bed with him to Alaska when he lead an expedition to Mount St. Elias. However, he did have his practical limitations: Realizing the bed would be a hassle for porters to move at high altitude during his explorations in the Karakorum, he left it behind.

I like to think that we all seek the outdoors for the same reasons, and generally speaking, it’s essentially this: We want to see the world differently. But camping, in most forms is partly there to engage us more with the environment, whether its through Whistler’s porch facing Blackcomb mountain as opposed to our urban balcony back home, or tent walls to the Maine forest compared to the shared walls of our apartments. Taking it to another level, it’s about deprivation; only by separating ourselves from the luxuries from the world we are comfortable do we properly experience wilderness. It can be experienced at varying levels, depending on the level of separation from the world we know. As Andrew Skurka said during his 7,000-plus mile, bare-bones hike around Alaska and the Yukon, he felt the world he left behind was inconsequential to him and that he had more in common with the caribou during his trek.

Glamping is not everyone’s preference, but it is somebody’s comfort zone and I suppose that it’s a good bridge to bring the natural world a bit closer to them. Designers of all kinds have taken the adventurous and often romantic angle of the outdoors experience and tried to bring it into our world of urban and suburban luxuries. Eddie Bauer and the The North Face are my favorite examples — at least in the fashion area, but home stores like Crate and Barrel use the outdoors as inspiration too.

And then there’s this… The high heeled Teva.

Those that favor “roughing it” to get the wilderness experience balk at how Teva has made a stiletto version of the popular — and ultra reliable — sport sandal a couple of years ago. The original Teva was made for white water rafting, and people — like my father — have hiked significant trails in them. Now, you can wear them clubbing too, evidently.

I love art and I recognize the inspiration for these women’s shoes. They are, in some ways a tribute, to the Teva quality and a salute to the rugged ways. Hardcore hikers and climbers can’t usually surmount this idea, partly because the highly fashionable wearers usually balk at them for their chosen, grungy ways. Despite their different ways, my Texan, roughing-it buddy would definitely appreciate the wearer’s fine taste in the high heel salute to the wilderness and would honor her in return by asking for her number, thus transcending the cultural differences.

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Upsides and Trade Offs in the Valley of the Sun

My business trip earlier this week to Scottsdale, Arizona went well. It was nice to finally take in the area from beyond the airport and airplane windows. But, it was ultimately much shorter than I thought it might be and there wasn’t any time for real exploration.

I might try to return with my family and more time to play. I’d like to pack my golf shoes and rent clubs next time. I actually packed my rock climbing shoes in the far-fetched hopes of bouldering around Camelback Mountain — which is smack in the middle of town and was just down a block from my hotel — or drop into one of several indoor gyms. Unfortunately, because of a full day of flying and skipping lunch because of time differences, I didn’t eat until what is ordinarily my bedtime. The daylight was gone and the southwestern food satisfied me but left me feeling full; very full. Bed it was. Morning came, the gyms wouldn’t open until after my flight departed, so I strolled momentarily in the dawning light nearby Camelback before I caught my ride to the airport.

I walked past some of the nicest residential real estate in the area and thought how neat it would be to live right here, have a necktie job like the one I have now, and walk across the street to these stones. Actually, for me, this idea was entirely novel. It gets 115 degrees (F) in the summer here. I’m miserable whenever Peaklessburg gets over 90. Average temperatures and snowfall can make or break the location’s appeal for me. But the trade off of heat for rock suddenly seemed appealing. At the same time, it’s not snow country. That’s a ways away, so skiing and other winter sports would still be out of reach.

During my brief walk I was taken by how dry and still everything seemed to be. According to my cab driver, it usually is. I say this because it’s amazing that in such a dry, rocky environment, the two forces that most shape the landscape is what it seems to lack most days — wind and water.

The notion of urban climbing was never more relevant than at this moment. Urban climbing on the east coast means gym training, really. But here — and doubtless other places in the western portion of North America — it means something more literal. You don’t have to pack up the Subaru and drive four hours to climb a little. Here, you can pull off the side of the road after work, then go to the Fashion Center on East Camelback Road for dinner and a drink or head home.

Of course climbing in the summertime would be impossible, I suspect. The rock would be too hot. So it it’s not one thing, it’s another.

It’s nothing like Vermont or Alaska — where I daydream the most. It’s different. I can’t tell if I am drawn to it because I like it or because I’m curious. By contrast from what I am accustomed to, it is a curious place.

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Groundhog Day, La Nina and Helmcken Falls

We have a strange tradition in North America called Groundhog Day. This is where some town officials from rural Pennsylvania (and some other communities too) use a large rodent, a groundhog, as a matter of fact — although Alaska uses Marmots — to predict the weather. If said rodent, Punxsutawney Phil, sees his shadow after emerging from his hole on February 2nd, Americans and Canadians are subject to six more weeks of winter. To which, Punxsatawney Phil heads back into his hole to “sleep in,” and we skiers and ice climbers can bask in the extended winter wonderland.

However, with this winter being so mild here in Peaklessburg, so what…?

Fortunately, conditions have been right in some places. For the most part. Tim Emmett has been able to climb the unworldly ice cave at Helmcken Falls in British Colombia. Though the precipitation has turned to rain for a few days, changing conditions.

I expect next winter there will be plenty of snow, particularly in Vermont for the Stowe Derby. At least I seriously hope so. I can’t imagine two seasons in a row like this.

Commitment to Training

Quick Note: I’m pages away from finishing One Mountain Thousand Summits by Freddie Wilkinson. Every time I’ve opened the book thinking I’m going to finish it — which has been four or five times in the last couple of days — Wunderkind wakes up from a nap or needs some special attention. I’m okay with the interruptions, actually. I’ve learned from Stephen King that reading is sometimes done in swallows, sometimes in sips.

I am also about 90 days away from the 10K race I’ll be running in April. This run will be the first milestone on my year-long plan to go from sedentary Washington, DC professional and armchair mountaineer, to being an active and fit husband and father.

The challenge to continuing to workout and train throughout the year is really about consistency and not getting bored with routine. Great athletes in professional sports, like Derek Jeter, Alex Ovechkin or Tiger Woods for example, have a tolerance and appreciation for routine. It allows them to focus on their game performance because all the factors of life are worked into a steady, somewhat predictable routine. For the most part, they all establish their way to prepare for an event and they don’t deter from it. Same meal, same warm up, same schedule, sometimes even the same music.

Preparing for the mountains is a bit trickier because the challenges we seek vary from location to location — unlike ball parks and ice rinks. Are you preparing for an Alaskan peak or a Colorado 14er? The training may be similar, but the time in preparing and the time that you need to be at your peak performance will be different; Alaskan expeditions tend to require more time commitment and therefore you need a bigger base of strength and reserves.

I’m preparing for the 2013 Stowe Derby. It’s a wacky skiing event where you ski down Vermont’s Mount Mansfield and then through town to the finish line. You have to commit before the race to compete on either skinny skis (nordic) or downhill skis. I’m going to ride and skate on my nordics. At least that way I’ll have an easier time on the level ground.

The race isn’t until February 2013 but it’s a goal that motivates me. Hopefully, I can develop a routine around this that I doesn’t bore me and that I have an inner desire to return to even after I get injured, sick or when work gets too busy for a brief season. Right now, I’m just running and doing some modest strength training. I already see benefits from my initial training, but sticking with it may be the toughest part, for any of us.

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